Saturday April 4th. Driving the jeep we took the Mayport
ferry across the St Johns River. Our plan for
the day was to explore Amelia Island and Fernandina
Beach. In every Southern
Living or Coastal Living magazine there are advertisements for Amelia Beach
communities filled with modern reproductions of old southern style cottages. These
advertisements present Amelia as quant but decidedly upscale and that is kind
of what we found. Or I should say what we observed on the other side of all the
community gates. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a more walled off community. I’d
say 80% of the developments are gated and we never did see any cottages, just
lots of large homes.
One place we found interesting was an old African American
beach community called American beach. The condition and architecture of the
buildings and cottages leads me to believe it had its Hey-Day many years ago,
suffered a long decline and may be at the beginning of a resurrection. This is
evidenced by some recent new homes and several under construction.
The intriguing thing about American Beach
is it is smack dap in the middle of the new Amelia communities. I’ll bet there
were some interesting conversations between the developers of the Amelia
communities, local government and the preservationists of American Beach.
Traveling north from the upscale Amelia communities you come
upon Fernandina Beach. What surprised me most was all
the beach houses looked like they were built 30 or 40 years ago. In most of the
east coast oceanfront communities I’ve visited all the old cottages have been
torn down and replaced with high end real estate.
At the upper end of Fernandina where the ocean meets the St
Mary’s River sits Fort
Clinch. It was first
fortified in 1736 by the Spanish, but over the years various nations have
garrisoned the site. In 1847 construction of the present fort was started by
the United States.
The confederate Army controlled the fort for a time during the Civil War; it
was also manned by the US Army during the Spanish-American War and WW2. The Civilian Conservation Corp restored the
fort during the great depression and it is now part of the Florida State Parks.
Fort Clinch park also has a campground that
we checked out for future reference and a fishing pier that is over 700 feet
long.
Before we left Fernandina we drove to the downtown area and
were pleasantly surprised to see the main street running down to the river
front has been successfully redeveloped into a vibrant shopping and restaurant tourist
district. We decided to try a trendy looking Mexican Restaurant. It was Ok, but
reaffirmed my observation that a slightly shabby looking Mexican restaurant usually
has better food than one trying to be Avant Garde.
We enjoyed our brief two day visit to the extreme upper
right hand corner of Florida
and will stop by again someday. Our original plan was to drive about 200 miles
to Walterboro South Carolina, spend one night
and then run the remaining 170+/- miles to our home in Myrtle Beach. We left the campground at 9:10 am
and experienced light traffic on I-95 probably because it was Easter Sunday.
Traffic rolled thru Georgia
at a steady 70mph and by 12:30 we were at the Walterboro exit. We decided to
keep driving and go the distance to Myrtle
Beach. We did get off the interstate and took the
local roads home, specifically we drove 17Alt to Georgetown
and Rt 17 to Myrtle Beach,
then Ocean Boulevard
to our home on 71st
Ave.
The afternoon drive was at leisurely pace of 45 and 55 miles
an hour. It was 4:30 when we got to the south end of Myrtle Beach we decided to cruise up Ocean Boulevard past
all the big hotels. This is a beach town and cruising the strip is a part of
seaside life you never outgrow. Looking at the parade of people bathed in multicolored
lights of the businesses on the oceanfront street is a constantly changing
kaleidoscope. The downtown was busy with tourists. the sun was shining, the air
was warm and all is right in our world.